Help me design a "new" gourd vent

[bootjack farm]

There's gotta be a better way to vent gourds. There's the 90 degree pvc elbow and the spinning squirrel cage vent. Both have their limitations. I would like to find some person/ people with the skills and inclination to tinker and think out of the box. Maybe someone with mechanical engineering skills? A machinist? 3D printer experience? I don't really know what it would take but I would like to start the discussion.

Note: There is no compensation offered other than the possibility to help our Martin friends. Private message me if you'd like to start a conversation.

[h2y]

Maybe you haven't seen the S&K Bo11 Plus Gourd ($20) that has a smaller black liner inside that allows the hot air to escape around it to a vented cap? I bought just a few recently and am optimistic but haven't hung them. The black inside color is a big plus as well, as my martins favor any house that's dark inside.

Re turbine vents, I use a 2" long piece of 1/2" PVC out of the side of the house to a tee, oriented vertical: up side to the turbine vent, the other down to drain water. Just hillbilly engineering so take it for what it's worth.

[bootjack farm]

No I haven't seen the new S&K. Will check it out. I think i understand but could you post a pic of your hillbilly fix?

[h2y]

See attached:

WIN_20230401_16_41_34_Pro.jpg[/attachment ][attachment=0]WIN_20230401_16_52_12_Pro.jpg

The vent added to the red house was mounted too low after the roof was installed. Should be mounted in the peak. This room is capped off, too hot.
The 2 added stainless steel passive vents in the red house are being tested this year.

[h2y]

For gourds...S&K already offers a vented, waterproof cap for the Bo11 gourd, so that's what I'll be using, not the PVC fix that I pictured.

For houses...I haven't tested these PVC/turbine vents. I'll see this year if it's an improvement over the stainless passive vents. In any event, I wouldn't install the turbine vents directly in the roof...guaranteed to have wet nests/fledglings. Bottom line, any venting is an improvement during the summer heat.

[bootjack farm]

Thanks for posting the pics. Sent you a private message.

[white-out]

The S&K Bo11 Plus are very nice but they are heavy. I also added a short pc of tread material to the inside of the opening. I noticed the martins having a hard time getting out SREH opening. Has any BO11 Plus users noticed this?

[Constant patrol]

I have 43 BO11Ps. The martins seem to do really good in the heat with them. I live in east Texas with high humidity and high temps. I have the Ultimate Tunnel with the clinger entrances. I have seen no issues with the birds going in and out.

[Martintown33]

White out.. if your birds are new to the sreh, there is a learning curve. They may struggle for a few days getting in and out, but then they’ll soon be swooping in and out with no problems..
Good luck,
Rob

[bootjack farm]

A bit frustrating how this thread evolved into a discussion of S&Ks and not designing a new gourd vent. Oh well .

[Thomabear]

A bit frustrating how this thread evolved into a discussion of S&Ks and not designing a new gourd vent. Oh well .

Might be helpful if you would post the type of gourds you have. I do have an idea, but it would require the use of a vertical gourd.

[Thomabear]

See attached:
WIN_20230401_16_41_34_Pro.jpg[/attachment
][attachment=0]WIN_20230401_16_52_12_Pro.jpg

The vent added to the red house was mounted too low after the roof was installed. Should be mounted in the peak. This room is capped off, too hot.
The 2 added stainless steel passive vents in the red house are being tested this year.

hy2, just an observation but I'm trying to understand why you leave the bottom of the T fully open. Seems this would reduce venting as much of the air flow would bypass the gourd and go up the T. I was considering doing the same before taking a route besides gourds, but I was going to glue a cap to the bottom of the T and drill a 1/8-1/4 inch hole for drainage.

[white-out]

Martintown33, I bought the "Ultimate Clinger Tunnel" for my BO11 Plus and there is smooth plastic on the inside of the opening. All my other gourds have treads of some sort and I don't think they have anything to push against. I glued some extra Troyer treads in that spot. I'll see what happens this year.

Not to upset my high-jacking of this thread.......
I'm kinda cheap sometimes and use these for plugs on the vertical Troyer gourds Just drill four 1/4" holes under the dimpled overhangs and they fit great. They have the same dimples on the horizontal gourd but I use two 3/4" street elbows and tie strap screen over the openings.

High Temp Masking Supply 3/16" x 11/32" Silicone Rubber Plugs - 50 Pack on amazoo

Wishing all a great birding season!

[Martintown33]

Yes, the traction strips will definitely help if there is a smooth surface…
Good luck,
Rob

[bootjack farm]

Thomabear, I have both vertical and horizontal gourds. I don't want to exclude any particular brand or style.

My thought was to get some folks that had some skills/ideas together off the main forum page ...sort of a focus group. As you can see the main forum can easily get off topic. Postings here also get lost amongst all the other threads over time. If we can come up with some good idea(s) by all means it should be shared. I would like to know about your idea. I have some ideas of my own but really need some serious peer review. Your preference is to whether to post it (or not) here or reach out to my forum email.

[Thomabear]

Bootjack, I haven't really looked into the horizontal gourds, but this is what I was planning to do to vertical gourds. For venting heat, the idea is to get the vent as high as possible to produce a chimney effect as hot air rises. Basically, like a roof vent. What I was planning on doing to the vertical gourds was to use a hole saw to drill a nice size hole in the very top of the gourd and install a mushroom vent cap or a larger PVC cap where it covers the hole and comes down the side a little bit to direct rainwater outside the hole. The cap could be fastened with spacers for centering and small screws or bolts. Nothing really complicated here, just a little adjusting to get it installed. Another benefit is that the cap would also help to cover the hanger rod holes to help prevent water seepage between the rod and holes. Hope this helps.

[bootjack farm]

I have made a protype vent that incorporates the stack effect, a passive venturi pump, and weep holes to prevent water infiltration. I have used it sucessfully for two seasons. It is a bit busy. I have thought about a cap over a simple stack vent but worried how big the cap it would need to be during a driving rain to prevent water infiltration.

[bootjack farm]

Thomabear, can you sketch it out and post?

[Thomabear]

Thomabear, can you sketch it out and post?

These are the methods I was considering using PVC caps. The one on the left was clearly my 1st choice as it was up higher for an improved stack effect while somewhat shielding the hanger rod holes. The other advantages over the current PVC 90 method is more open area for air flow and the wind direction won't impact the performance.

DWG.png

(13.89 KiB) Not downloaded yet

[bootjack farm]

Nice. You ought to put your idea to work on a gourd and see how it fares.