Troyer Horizontal Super Gourds

[Madame WingNut]

I am having major hygiene problems with my Troyer horizontal super gourds.

While the vertical gourds and aluminum housing have standard round entry holes, I have found it necessary to have Starling Resistent Entry Holes (SREH) on the horizontal gourds, as European Starlings (EUST) apparently LOVE tunnel openings.

The PUMA love them too, and choose them first. Instructions state that I must add nesting material to the horizontal gourds so I have been putting dry soft pine needles in them. I like having these horizontal gourds as an option because I believe if a hawk or owl did show up to depredate the rigs, nothing could get them in these gourds (too far back).

In northern Ohio (South Bass Island on Lake Erie), I typically perform one nest change around July 4th. Horizontal gourds were filthy, wet, disgusting, urea smelling mess whereas the vertical gourds and aluminum housing were not.

So what is the problem? My choice of nesting material (soft, white pine needles not draining properly)? Lack of ventilation due to long horizontal neck and SREH? Do horizontal gourds require more frequent nest changes?

Chicks in horizontal gourds were older. Some compartments were 24 days of age. The feces of chicks in these gourds was not healthy (runny brown/yellow). Was this due to disease or parents feeding berries?

The rigs are full of nestlings. There were 150 young on the 4th and only 3 compartments without young. I replaced all the original nests with tablespoon of diatomaceous earth, followed by layer of cedar shavings, topped with shallow layer of pine needles.

All insights, thoughts, suggestions appreciated.

Paula Z
Powell (central) and South Bass Island (North) Ohio

[Steve Kroenke]

Hey Paula,

The Troyer Horizontal Gourds may need ventilation holes to help hot air/humidity escape from the nest cavity. I use a bunch of Troyer gourds and had a similar problem that you are having in some of them until I ventilated the gourds. Some of the nests were wet and nasty looking. I drilled two vent holes in the canopies/bumps that are located on the upper back of the Troyer Gourds. I used either 1/4 or 3/8 inch diameter holes and both helped to vent out hot humid air; the 3/8 inch holes are better because their larger size allows more air flow. The venting has definitely helped to keep the martin nests from become too hot/humid in the Troyer Gourds.

Horizontal gourds with their tunneled entrance can become hot and humid without adequate ventilation. The shape of such gourds encourages heat/humidity to build up inside. When heat/humidity "stays" trapped in such gourds, the nests can become almost wet and the martin nestlings may even look "dirty". Unremoved fecal matter can make things even more "smelly" and worse for the nestlings in unventilated horizontal gourds.

So by drilling vent holes in the canopies on the upper back or using a similar venting system you may be able to minimize the build up of heat/humidity in these type gourds. This may keep conditions inside the gourds drier and allow the heat/humidity to better escape out the vent holes.

Local weather conditions no doubt impact the amount of heat/humidity inside martin cavities and under extreme conditions even venting may not be completely successful.

Here is a close-up photo of the upper back of one of my Troyer Horizontal Gourds with two vent holes drilled under the canopies. The vent holes point somewhat downward to help keep rainwater out. The vents have channels to allow rainwater to drain downward. These are 3/8 inch diameter holes.



Steve

[geezer]

Steve that is great info. I also love the THG and have great success with them.

I drill several upward slanting holes in the back and then build small canopies using silicone caulk. Seems to work effectively.

There are lots of owls in my area. I feel more secure using the THG's.

Good luck to everyone.