What Cuts Aluminum??? Other than Tin Snips

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jeffwilliams72
Posts: 267
Joined: Tue Apr 27, 2010 9:22 am
Location: Indiana/Carthage

Does anyone have a better method for cutting new holes in alum. houses, other than disassembly and tin snips?
I want to cut holes in the sides of my Coates, to allow for attaching tunnels w/ porches.
A drilled hole, then a rotozip??? A dremel with cutting disc??? A metal cutting hole saw bit???
Any thoughts or shared experiences would be greatly appreciated.
2008/1st pair/ 4 fledged
2009-2010 visitors only
2011/2 pr/9 eggs/8 fledged
2012/9pr/33 fledged
2013/27pr/101 fledged
Guest

Any and all will work,add a Saber Saw to the list and use the one of your preferemce an are the most adept with..............I would cut shy of the line and finish the opening with a fine stone in the dremel(smooth) or a fine toothed half moon file.

dick
Guest

Any and all will work,add a Saber Saw to the list and use the one of your preferemce an are the most adept with..............I would cut shy of the line and finish the opening with a fine stone in the dremel(smooth) or a fine toothed half moon file.

dick
John Miller
Posts: 4866
Joined: Mon Mar 22, 2004 9:11 pm
Location: St. Louis, MO

I use a hole saw on a drill to cut through interior walls on Trio houses, and I absolutely detest it. The house bounces around, makes a horrible noise and I don't always cut cleanly. It helps if somehow you can get a block of wood behind the wall. But..it cuts quickly. You can probably do a hole a minute once you power up. Be sure to take rough sand paper and smooth down the edges.

John
Ed Svetich-WI
Posts: 815
Joined: Tue Jan 13, 2004 10:05 pm
Location: Brooks, Wi (McGinnis Lake)
Martin Colony History: 24 Super and Excluder Gourds on two gourd racks, all SREH. Full occupancy. My philosophy is to maximize fledge % with existing cavities rather than adding gourds to grow colony, thus providing opportunities for new colony expansion. Fledge over 100 nestlings yearly from 24 gourds. Band nestlings in cooperation with state university. 2019 Adendum: Reduced colony size to 12 gourds to focus on more intensive management regimen.

I agree with John. When I converted my two Trio houses to double cavities I used a 2 inch hole saw that I use on wood. The aluminum is so thin that it does not faze the saw so no need to worry about dulling the blade. I used a piece of 4x4 that fit into the cavity and drilled/cut into the end of the 4x4 so that I had a solid base. Make sure that your bit has a pilot drill in it so you can get a good bite and not jump around and chew up the metal. It cut cleanly and I smoothed out the sharp edge with a metal file and finished up with a piece of fine sandpaper around a small piece of wood.
RC Moser
Posts: 1546
Joined: Fri Nov 14, 2003 3:25 am

Why cut holes in the panels. Just remove them and use them as blocker panel/ expanded cavity door cover for the outsides if you are trying to expand the comparments. If I use the outside cavity door panels inside I use chiesl and hammer and make the 2 1/2" square. Sand shape edges. But, nothing wrong with removing them altogather.

those panels can easily be made by using sheet metal. You take door or panel flatten it out with hammer and trace patteren onto sheetmetal. Cut it out bend in vise and cut slots for hanger rod or pivot point. Cut vent holes or entry holes as needed or leave them solid.
razman
Posts: 568
Joined: Sun May 09, 2004 3:14 pm
Location: wichita ks

a hole saw made for metal worked fine on mine.....
2004...notta
2005-2008 lookies
2009...lookies, and a SYM hanging around a bunch
2010...an ASY pair! 5 eggs, 5 babies fledged! yehawwwwwwwwww
2011....still only one nesting pair..extreme heat killed the babies
2012..ASY pair...fledged 4 babies!
2013 notta, few lookie lous
Emil Pampell-Tx
Posts: 6743
Joined: Tue Nov 11, 2003 1:26 pm
Location: Tx, Richmond (SW of Houston)
Martin Colony History: First started in Gretna, La in 1969 with a small homemade house, have had martins ever since at 2 different homes in Texas

If you wish to enlarge the compartment, and if you cut a round hole, there is a good chance of wing entrapment. If you take out the entrie panel, there is no chance for wing entrapment. If you take out the panel, and if an owl reaches in, the babies can quickly scramble to the back end.

For tunnels into the side of a house, I would cut out a hole that exactly fits the tunnels, and I would use a jigsaw with a metal cutting blade. It somewhat depends upon the shape of the house, and how close you can get to the aluminum with the jig saw.
PMCA Member, 250 gourds, 6 poles, 2traps
Paul P
Posts: 69
Joined: Fri Nov 12, 2010 4:15 pm
Location: Missouri/Macon

I agree with all of the above. I used a hole cutting blade in my drill. Just take your time and keep the blade level with your work. Don't let it grab. But if I had it all to do over again I would remove the center section. I smoothed the surface after drilling the best I could, but still think I should have applied some kind of protection on the sharp edges. This winters project will be to remove the center panel. :)

Paul P
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Vern1
Posts: 471
Joined: Fri Aug 03, 2007 2:06 pm
Location: Pettytown, Texas, US of A

Greetings,
Drill a small hole in the center and use a punch that electricians use to cut holes in electric boxes for conduit.
You put the punch on the inside, the die on the outside with bolt thru the hole you drilled and tighten with a wrench until it cuts thru.
Nice smooth finished hole that's easy to do.
The thin aluminum is a snap to cut with them as they are made for much heavier metal electrical boxes.
They can be pricey but are designed for the job and are very easy to make nice clean holes.
Cheers,
Joe
2015 - 40 cavities - 37 pair - fledged 172
2016 - 40 cavities - 38 pair - fledged 192
Hosting Purple Martins since 1976...Managing since 2006.
Keith
Posts: 435
Joined: Mon Mar 16, 2009 2:45 pm
Location: Missouri/Ava
Martin Colony History: 85 pair in 2020. Seems fairly consistent the last few years.

What I did is maybe not the easiest to do but was done for three reasons. I removed the center partition and marked a large arch at a particular height, then drilled a 3/8 hole at each end and then cut out with a fine tooth blade using the saber saw. I left about 1/2 inch metal lip to bend down over a metal rod. Removed this metal rod and then when replacing the partition just run original rod back through the lip. Always file or sand sharp edges. The bird house is stable as before, no gap is left behind metal rod this way, The sub floor and nesting material stay in rear compartment. Will try and post picture.
Keith
jeffwilliams72
Posts: 267
Joined: Tue Apr 27, 2010 9:22 am
Location: Indiana/Carthage

Thank you all very much for the excellent info.!
I think the hole saw with finish sanding will be the ticket.
My plan is to remove the inner wall of the Coates suite, add S&K tunnels with porches on the sides of the house, to offer a large nesting area with protection.
Emil, is there still a risk of wing entrapment with a 2 1/2" hole?
2008/1st pair/ 4 fledged
2009-2010 visitors only
2011/2 pr/9 eggs/8 fledged
2012/9pr/33 fledged
2013/27pr/101 fledged
CMF
Posts: 335
Joined: Tue Jan 15, 2008 8:18 am
Location: Georgetown, DE

FYI hole saw trick. If you back up the aluminum with wood, run the hole saw in reverse and slower. It will cut through without grabbing and causing jagged edges. I use quality bi-metal hole saws.
CMF
In my many years I have come to a conclusion that
one useless man is a shame,
two is a law firm and
three or more is a congress.-- John Adams
Scott D.- La
Posts: 823
Joined: Thu Jun 08, 2006 8:35 am
Location: Louisiana

A hole saw is the easiest way, and probably the cheapest way depending on what you have on hand. One poster mentioned knockout's, they work great if someone has a set, which I do but, they are expensive. If you know someone in the electrical field, they may have a set you can borrow.
I hope you will remove the divider completely, as it's not needed. You can use the aluminum angle as per our email's.
jeffwilliams72
Posts: 267
Joined: Tue Apr 27, 2010 9:22 am
Location: Indiana/Carthage

Scott, Thanks for all of the pictures!!!!!!
I am following your plans, the divider is coming out. The only difference, is that, I am using tunnels with porches instead of the pvc fittings like you used.
I have a 2-1/2" hole saw bit, can you tell me if wing entrapment can still be an issue with a hole this large? I want to use it in the side of the house where the tunnel will attach, rather than cutting it out by other means.
2008/1st pair/ 4 fledged
2009-2010 visitors only
2011/2 pr/9 eggs/8 fledged
2012/9pr/33 fledged
2013/27pr/101 fledged
Laverne
Posts: 2216
Joined: Thu Jan 08, 2004 1:58 pm
Location: TX/Alvin
Martin Colony History: Erected 1st house in 1997. Birds were checking it out before Mike got down from the ladder. Six cavities had a little colony 1st year. Grown to 88 cavities all gourds with near 100% occupancy. Most important factor for success is rain = bugs.

Whatever y'all use - just be sure to wear your safety glasses!! :wink:

8)

Sincerely,
Laverne
Sincerely,
Laverne
jeffwilliams72
Posts: 267
Joined: Tue Apr 27, 2010 9:22 am
Location: Indiana/Carthage

Thanks Laverne!!! SAFETY FIRST!!!!
2008/1st pair/ 4 fledged
2009-2010 visitors only
2011/2 pr/9 eggs/8 fledged
2012/9pr/33 fledged
2013/27pr/101 fledged
Scott D.- La
Posts: 823
Joined: Thu Jun 08, 2006 8:35 am
Location: Louisiana

Jeff, I think that will be fine. I am sure that is the size I used on my small Coates house with ultimate tunnels and never had a problem.
jeffwilliams72
Posts: 267
Joined: Tue Apr 27, 2010 9:22 am
Location: Indiana/Carthage

Scott, Thanks again, I am pretty excited to start my project.
I will wait until migration is over, before transforming my old Coates into a weatherproof, deluxe apartment in the sky!
2008/1st pair/ 4 fledged
2009-2010 visitors only
2011/2 pr/9 eggs/8 fledged
2012/9pr/33 fledged
2013/27pr/101 fledged
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